Why do so many guitarists complain about thick strings being hard to bend? I mean i dont get the problem?

Question

I started off using the stock strings on my guitar 9-42,i thought they felt too bendy even tho i was just beginning so i got a set of 10-52 skinny top heavy bottom ernie ball strings and they were good for a month or two,then i moved to 12-56 ernie ball not even slinky. They felt great and were still really easy to bend despite what people say even in standard tuning and i was also able to tune down to drop g and by then they were the same looseness as 9-42 in standard ive stuck with them till now. So in short whats so bad about thick strings? Im thinking about getting 14-70 gauge strings on my next guitar altho i only plan on tuning to drop c at highest on that one (ive been playing guitar for a long time now tho,my hands r so callhouse its crazy)

Answer 1

The determining factor in "bend-ability" of strings is tension. The lower the tension, the easier it is to bend the string. It doesn't matter how thick the string is....if the tension is low, it'll be easy to bend.



If you take a .012 string and tune it to E on a full 25.5" scale guitar, you'll have 23.32 lbs of tension as opposed to 12.28 for a .009 string. That's almost twice the tension, and I think that qualifies as hard to bend. Unless you have finger muscles like a gorilla, it's going to slow you down and limit how far you can bend a note. So that's why I use .009's on my electric guitar. On my acoustic, I use .011 or .012 but it's very difficult to bend a note properly.....so I adjust my style. Just a fact of life.



Now, if you're going to stay tuned in drop C, it's a little different story:

With your current .012 string tuned to D, you have 18.52 lbs which is a little more manageable. If you go to a .014, you'll increase the tension to 25.01 lbs which even you may find a bit stiff.



There's a second factor to tension: scale length. A shorter scale length (distance from nut-to-bridge) will have lower tension. This is why it's easier to bend notes on a Les Paul (24.75") than on a Stratocaster (25.5") So you see, there are a lot of factors involved.



As far as the proper string gauge for drop C, you're on the right track. The idea is to look at the normal range of string tension in standard tuning. Then choose a strings that will fall within that same range when you de-tune to drop C. This will of course require heavier strings. Here's a link to a string tension calculator to help you determine the best gauge: http://www.mcdonaldstrings.com/stringxxiii.html

Answer 2

Well, for starters, drop G is retarded low. There's no chance in hell you've properly intonated a normal guitar to play that low. If you don't know what I'm talking about, then just take my word for it: your fretted notes are not in tune.



Anyway, thicker strings are under greater tension when tuned to pitch, which makes them harder to bend. End of story.



With thicker strings, the distance you have to displace the string to change the pitch is much shorter than with thinner strings. Some people like to do bends that go all the way across the neck. You're still only getting whole and half steps (a minor 3rd at the most), but that long distance bend gives you a little more control.

Answer 3

Being a former guitar teacher, your instructor is the best way to identify your problem. After all, your instructor can view your fingering to see what you are doing incorrectly. When I first learned bending, I experienced two problems. The first problem was as I started to bend the string, I would ease up on the downward pressure and this would make the string buzz. Another problem I had was I could not bend the string far enough for a full bend. Below is how I solved these two problems. Whenever possible, I try to use the 3rd finger to perform bends. Your 3rd finger is the finger used most often to wear engagement and wedding rings on. It is next to your pinkie. Place your 3rd finger over the fret for the note that you want to produce. Push down hard so that when you strum or pick that string, you hear the tone clearly. While pushing down on the fretboard, start to apply a sideways force (either up or down) just enough to make the string bend a half step. Stop just before your bend makes contact with the next string. Practice this many times on all six strings. If you have having trouble bending the string or need to bend a full step, use your 1st and 2nd fingers to help your 3rd finger bend the string. (Now you see why I prefer to bend with my 3rd finger?) This is especially helpful on full bends because you will make contact with adjacent strings and have to push against them to bend your string. If you are still having trouble accomplishing this, make sure the fingernails on your bending finger does not extend past the end of your finger. If you need additional help or advice, visit the source link I posted below and search for videos using "guitar" and "bends" as a keywords.

Answer 4

I use 9-42's, and I'll never change this string guage. Of course, I don't use any kind of drop tunings. I'm still trying to master standard tuning. Haha.



I enjoy throwing pedal steel type bends into my solos to break the monotony of single note lines.



Try doing this first finger bend on a heavy guage of string...



X-12-12-9(11)-X-X



In this lick your ring finger holds the 5th string at the 12th fret.



Your little finger holds the 4th string at the 12th fret.



Your first finger holds the 3rd string at the 9th fret and does a full step bend so the bend sounds like the note played at the 11th fret, 3rd string. (Bend the note down toward the floor)



This is a mini D chord.



Why not just switch to bass guitar, then you can have real thick string guages?

Answer 5

So do you spend 3 hours on stage bending those 12's? It is a trade off, you are getting a fatter tone and giving up ease of bending. It's just that simple. I can easily tell the difference between 9's and 10's as can every other guitarist I know. But hey, if 14's work for your neanderthal hands then go for it.